From 17 to 24 October, Coral Triangle Center (CTC), together with Planet Deep, hosted eight guests from Switzerland, the Netherlands, and Australia on a week-long voyage through the Banda Islands — a place where history, culture, and marine life come together in unforgettable ways.

Aboard the Fenides liveaboard, the group journeyed from Ambon through Saparua Island, Nusa Laut Island, Suanggi Island, Banda Neira to Hatta Island, Ay Island, and Rhun Island before returning to Ambon. Following the footsteps of 16th-century explorers, they explored Maluku’s Spice Trade Islands. Along the way, they dove into vibrant reefs and observed some of the archipelago’s most magnificent marine life.

The expedition was designed around what we call “the four C’s” — Cetaceans, Coral, Culture, and Conservation — offering a comprehensive view of the Banda Sea’s incredible biodiversity and the communities working to protect it.

Cetaceans

The Banda Sea welcomed the guests with 11 blue whale encounters over the week. A towering spout breaks the surface, followed by the mottled grey skin of the world’s largest animal gliding through the water just meters from the boat. For many guests, it was their first time seeing a blue whale.

Antoinette Vermilye, Co-Founder of the Gallifrey Foundation described the experience, “I had never seen a blue whale before, and watching them surface just meters away was humbling. Learning how these giants forage, migrate, and communicate deepened my understanding of why protecting the Banda Sea is so crucial.”

These encounters were made possible through daily whale patrols led by Planet Deep’s marine mammal scientists. Guests learned the art of ethical whale tracking, which involves approaching slowly, maintaining a respectful distance, and keeping the boat at a low, steady engine thrum so that the whales feel comfortable and unthreatened.

Melon-headed whales, spinner dolphins, and spotted dolphins also made appearances during the voyage, leaping and playing — an energetic contrast to the calm, powerful presence of the blues.

Corals

Between whale patrols, participants explored some of Indonesia’s most pristine diving sites, including the iconic Lava Flow site, home to thriving coral systems teeming with life. These vibrant underwater gardens provided a vivid setting for conversations about Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), long-term reef resilience, and the role local communities play in stewardship.

Culture at the heart of conservation

One of the highlights of the journey was attending the traditional Sasi ceremony on Pulau Ay. The ceremony marks the official opening of a two-week harvest season for lobster, sea cucumber, and Trochus snails. The rules reflected a time-honored and sustainable approach to managing shared marine resources.

Antoinette reflected, “This short fishing season assures a healthy marine ecology, assures fair market value, and an agreed community commitment to protect a common resource. This is true stewardship. We were so honored to be part of this unique ceremony.”

Throughout the journey, CTC Executive Director Rili Djohani shared insights into the organization’s work on MPAs, the Kalesang Dugong conservation project, and community-based conservation initiatives. Participants also had the opportunity to visit Ibu Masnah on Rhun Island and engage directly with local communities. Her warm welcome and local perspective anchored the expedition in the lived experience of Banda’s communities. 

The cultural immersion extended to land tours on Banda Neira, where guests explored the museum, Fort Belgica, and historic nutmeg plantations, sampling fresh nutmeg juice and jam while learning about the islands’ storied past in the spice trade.

Why being there matters

Antoinette captured the essence of the trip in her reflection, “I had the privilege of spending a week with Rili Djohani as we traveled around the Banda Islands on a liveaboard in Indonesia learning about her amazing work — not only for corals, marine protected areas, and plastics but also for inclusiveness — particularly gender.”

She concluded with a powerful reminder, “I could never have known about this had I not been there in person. There is still a lot to be said for traveling in person.”

Looking ahead

The success of this partnership demonstrates the power of combining conservation education with immersive experiences. By bringing supporters directly to the places we work and the communities we serve, we create lasting connections that translate into sustained support for marine conservation.

Writer: Jaling Sim/CTC

Photos: Purwanto/CTC, Benjamin Kahn.